Friday, August 17, 2007

Burney's Trail

This was one of the rare hikes that we actually met other people on it-a man offered to take our picture at the top, and his dogs came trotting over. Obviously they wanted to be in the picture too, even though they didn't look at the camera!
This hiking trail has had a lot of improvements done on it in the past month. Part was regravelled and the brush cut along the trail. It is only a mile roundtrip with a 200 foot elevation gain. It has a nice view of Hidden Lake. It is a completely unburned forest, which made it really cozy hiking compared to many of the hikes we have gone on. The kids learned the joy of running downhill on this trail, and so every other trail we hiked we ran down it!

Skilak Lookout Trail






This was a 700 foot climb. The distance was either 4 miles or 5 miles, depending on which source is true (both from the Kenai Wildlife Refuge booklet). There were very strong bear signs along this path: we smelled rotting carcasses in at least 4 different spots. This was a burn area as well, but it was wetter so the vegetation was different than the Vista Trail. There were a couple of unburned areas at the beginning of the trail that were beautiful. We met a couple ladies as we were heading back down, one who had not hiked the trail for 15 years. She was amazed at how different it was since it had burned. We liked this trail more than the Vista. There was some boardwalk where the trail got mucky. There was a very nice view of Skilak Lake from the top, though a view of a different part of the lake than the Vista. On the way up there were gorgeous views of Hidden Lake.

Wednesday, August 15, 2007

Wild berries!!

There were berries on every hike we took in the Kenai Wildlife Refuge area Aug. 10-14, more in the open, fire areas than in the closed woods. There were watermelon berries and raspberries (regular red and trailing) fully ripe and delicious. The low and high bush cranberries, currants and rosehips were not fully ripe. The kids avoided the bunchberries (which I love) and timberberries because our Alaska berry book does not recommend them. Elderberries grew in profusion, but are poisonous until cooked, so we couldn't eat those (they contain a glycoside related to cyanide). And then there were the devil's claw (nasty prickers) and baneberries (a few berries can kill a small child).

Vista Trail


That is Skilak Lake in the background, but it is hard to see because the clouds and water blend in beautifully. By the time we got to the top it was clearer and we could see the smoke from the forest fire across the lake (Swan Lake Fire, started July 29 from a lightning strike, 1600 acres burned so far). There were quite some billows of smoke coming up, which explained the brown haze on the horizon. I hadn't known there was a fire, so I couldn't figure out the "smog"!

This trail was an 800 foot climb, 3 miles roundtrip. There were more berries on this hike than any other hike we did in this area. We "grazed" our way both up and down the mountain, and we learned to grab berries without stopping!

The trail was well worn, but we couldn't see the trail because the grasses were over the kids' heads in many places, and over my head in some places. Though it was a clear day, the dew had been heavy and we got soaked within minutes. By time we reached the top we appreciated being wet because we were so hot! The area was burned in 1996 (Hidden Creek Fire, 5200 acres) so there were just skeletons of trees and no shade.
About 1/4 of the way up we came across a berry-filled bear scat. After that we began to practice good bear-avoidance tactics: talk, sing, whistle or hum or make any type of noise so as not to startle a bear and to give them time to get away from us. As it was our first hike, I was not quite aware of just how important this knowledge was since we encountered many signs of bear on other hikes.

Lower Ohmer Lake Campground


I thought I had more pictures of the campground, but discovered this is the only one--of Denver eating raspberries on the top of the rock. The kids had great fun playing on this rock for the 5 days we stayed at this campground. There were 4 sites, and the only "service" was a pit toilet (nicer than Michigan pit toilets!!). Ohmer Lake was perfect temperature for swimming and wading (warmer than Thumb Lake, for those of you in the know!), and the kids had fun building "docks" on the pea gravel beach you see behind the rock in this picture. A leech bit Denver one day (I know they don't bite, but it sure hurt him the way he went on), and the kids found a couple others about 4 inches long. They were long and skinny, not like the leeches I've seen in Michigan. Aurora saw a 6-inch fish swim in and eat a 1-inch fish right at her feet while she was playing! We saw 2 loons, and they called to each other all night long, and occasionally during the day too. They were so loud it was startling (and if I say that you know it was loud!). I couldn't quite believe the campground was free since everything in Alaska costs money, and they charge for things that are free in Michigan, like hiking on hiking trails. It was weird to spend 5 days camping and not have to pay a cent, but I wasn't complaining either! The campground didn't have water, so we went to another campground to fill up with water. There were 6 different kinds of berries around the campground, and we picked lots of raspberries which we ate with every meal. Next time we need to bring a canoe and swimsuits, though next time it probably won't be in the 70's and sunny like it was the whole time we were there. It was the best weather of the entire summer!

Skilak Wildlife Recreation Area

The kids and I just spent 5 days camping in the Skilak Wildlife Recreation Area, about 1 hour north of Soldotna. It is an area with a high concentration of wildlife and lakes. There are 12 trails, from the easiest Egumen Lake (.6 miles, no elevation change) to the Skyline Trail, (2 miles round trip, 2300 foot climb--mentioned in one of my other blog posts). We went on 7 of the hikes, and I will detail each in separate blog entries for ease of reading & so it is clear which pictures go w/which hike. There are also 9 campgrounds, of which only 3 charge fees. The rest are free, but don't offer as many services (no campground hosts; no trash pickup). All campgrounds are on lakes and have boat launches, and all have only pit toilets. Seven of the nine have drinking water. There are also wilderness cabins for rent by reservation. Skilak Lake Road is a gravel road that runs parallel to the Sterling Highway. Many of these campgrounds were established for the road crews who built the Sterling Highway. If you want to get off the main road for a few miles, slow down and take in a hike, the Skilak Lake Road is a good option as it leaves the Sterling Highway and then rejoins it about 18 miles down the road.

Sunday, August 5, 2007

Cell phones in Alaska

Cell phone reception here in Alaska is sporadic, at best, and never something we count on having in any particular place. Although Cellular One shows it provides continuous service from Homer up to Fairbanks along the main highway, there are large sections that we have not been able to get reception. We live 30 miles east of Homer, and have not been able to get a good signal here. However, some people have been able to get a signal in strange places. For example, we saw a guy standing on top of his car a half mile from here, talking on his cell phone. Others will mention very specific places where they can make calls from, sometimes. We've given up using our cell phone at home, and drive 10 miles towards town if we want to use the cell. McNeil Canyon School, where the kids will go to school, is the closest spot we get a good signal.